Ford Engine Tune-up kit
This kit will help you tune up your 260, 289, 302, 351 and 390 motors.
Includes:
- Points
- Rotor
- Condenser
Part no. C0TZ-12000-A
DIY Tips Video –
DIY Tips to tune up your Ford 302
Make sure your spark plugs are gapped correct at the start. Unless you have reason to suspect a bad carb, save it for last. I’m by no means an expert but here’s my normal attempt at fine tuning. Set your carb using a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum. Start by screwing the adjustment screws all the way in (DON’T torque it, just till is stops) and then back them about about 1-1/2 turns. Crank it up and warm it to idle. Adjust the mixture screws to the steadiest, highest vacuum reading. First one, then the other, then back to the other one. Check the reading at different rpm’s. Once you have steady vacuum readings, adjust the idle screw down to around 600-800 rpm. You may have to go back and forth a few times with each screw until they’re about matched and consistent.
Once you have your carb set then, I like to set my timing based on total advance and let the initial advance fall where it lands. Disconnect and plug your vacuum advance can on the distributor, both hose end and can connector. Connect your timing light and idle the engine up to 2000-2500 rpm and slowly rotate your distributor until you get 32-38 degrees total advance. Shoot for a steady reading as opposed to an actual number. If you hit 35* and the light starts floating on you, up and down, you’ve gone too far, back off the distributor a little until it’s steady. Then let it idle back down and see where the initial falls, probably between 10-16*. Connect your vacuum advance back up and see how it runs. You may have to adjust the idle down if your timing is a little higher than you started.
If so, go back to your carb and verify the setting again. Tweak as required. I fought mine for weeks until I set it for total advance. I got it steady at 35* and she ran great but the initial turned out to be 22*! I’m still not certain if my timing pointer had gotten bent or my harmonic balancer shifted on it’s damper or what. All I know is she ran like a top that way.
Step back to the tailpipe and put your hand in front of it to check on a steady consistent exhaust flow from both pipes (if dual exhaust) with no oil or anything spitting on your hands and no smoke, especially when you “goose” it. A little condensation is normal if it’s been sitting for a little while but should go away once it warms up.
After I run it a little, I like to let it cool down and check the plugs for any oil/gas residue and that they’re firing well. You can tell a lot about your tune up settings by the plugs. On an old truck like ours, specs are more “guidelines” than cast in stone. That’s just what I do. There’s a lot of members here who have a whole lot more technical know how and I’d take their suggestions over mine. Btw, do you know your rear end gear ratio? Automatic or standard shift? Tire size? My truck has a Ford 3.03 3spd manual transmission running 265/75-15 tires with a 3.89 gear ratio. 75-80 is all she’ll get and she’s screaming at 3500-4000 rpm’s (estimated) at that. It’s a waste of time to try to go any faster, it’s only punishing her.
